Have you decided to go all in and embrace your curly natural hair? Then you've got a lot to learn about the ins and outs of your curls, kinks, and coils. But don't be put off - learning to care for your curly hair is something that you'll eventually master. You just need an all-encompassing guide to get you started, and that's exactly what this article is. In it, I'll share everything you need to know about how to care for natural hair, and I won't leave anything out. Here we go!
Know that Curly Natural Hair is Fragile
The first thing that you need to know about your curly natural hair is that it's super fragile compared to straight or even wavy hair. Its structure twists and turns in several spots, and this causes a couple of problems that could lead to breakage:
Your scalp oils can't move down curly, whirly hair strands and keep them lubricated. This leads to super dry hair that is more prone to brittleness and breakage. Straight-haired people don't have to worry about this issue because their scalp oils don't need to go through an obstacle course to move down their strands.
Every point at which your hair turns or curls in a different direction is a weak spot. So, in instances where you are rough with your hair, you could see some breakage or develop damage to your hair cuticles.
All of this is to say that your hair needs a ton of moisture - more than you might think is necessary. It also needs TLC at every point, and we'll highlight exactly how to do both of these in the sections to follow.
Cleanse Your Hair Correctly and Regularly
One of the biggest misconceptions that I've heard about natural hair is that your hair needs to be dirty to grow well. That couldn't be further from the truth. In fact, if you go around without adequately washing your hair, you could end up with a clogged, congested scalp that's irritated and can't grow hair the way it should.
Another problem you could run into is buildup, which comes from the accumulation of hair product or residue from said product. When these substances build up on the strands, they create a barrier that keeps you from moisturizing your strands. The result? Dry hair that can't thrive. And let's not even mention the smell!
How to Wash Your Curls
You won't wash your curls like they do in Head and Shoulders commercials. You'll have to go about it a different way entirely. Here's how to cleanse natural hair the right way.
Divide your hair into 2 to 4 sections. If you have super curly hair, 4 sections are better than 2. The point of this step is to make your hair easier to manage.
Hop in the shower and wet one of the sections down.
Dispense some sulfate-free shampoo into your palms and rub them together. You can't use too much shampoo, but you can use too little.
Apply the shampoo to the roots of the section of hair you've chosen.
Use the pads of your fingers to scrub the roots of your hair as well as your scalp. It should take a minute or two to scrub a section thoroughly. Never use your nails when scrubbing your hair. I repeat - NEVER use your nails when scrubbing your hair and scalp. Doing so could leave superficial cuts on your scalp and open up the door to infection - you don't want that!
Rinse the section thoroughly and then braid or twist it up to keep the hair out of the way and minimize tangling. At no point should you pile your hair on top of your head - it'll turn your wash session into tangle-city.
Repeat the process on all of the rest of your sections.
Wash your curls as needed to keep your hair and scalp free of buildup. For most curly girls, that's every few days to a week. Don't wash your hair every day unless you want to risk it looking like a Brillo pad.
Condition and Deep Condition Correctly and Often
Any time you wash your hair, the next step should be to condition it. Shampoos can easily strip your hair of all of its precious moisture. And you'll want to replenish that as soon as you possibly can. You can do that with either a conditioner or a deep conditioner. Which one should you use though?
To answer that, you need to know what a conditioner and deep conditioner do. Conditioners provide light to moderate moisture and nutrients to the hair. They can make your hair feel noticeably softer and better hydrated, and they can also leave your hair shinier and make it easier to work with. But the results of a conditioner session just don't last that long.
On the other hand, deep conditioners do everything that conditioners do, but their effects last for much longer - up to a week or so. And they also provide deeper hydration than you can get from a conditioner due to their heavier formula and higher nutrient density.
If you're looking for a quick moisture boost after shampooing, go for a regular rinse-out conditioner. For a longer-lasting treatment that can also repair your hair, go for a deep conditioning treatment.
How to Condition Your Hair Correctly
Now, let's get into how to condition your hair correctly. It's not nearly as difficult as you think, but it's wise to follow the below instructions to a T.
After shampooing, separate your hair into several sections to make your hair easier to work with. If your hair is short or fine, this step may not be necessary. But if you have a lion's mane of curls, take some time to section your hair off.
Dispense some conditioner into your hands - be generous.
Apply the conditioner or deep conditioner to your hair, focusing on the ends. They are the most vulnerable part of the hair and need the most love. Smooth the conditioner through your hair, ensuring that no strand is left uncovered.
Wait for the amount of time indicated on the packaging. There's no one-size-fits-all time recommendation for conditioners. The instructions from the manufacturer are your best bet.
When time is up, rinse your hair thoroughly and move on to the next step of your wash day routine.
Note on deep conditioning: Deep conditioning is far from rocket science. You'll follow the same steps I outlined above except with a deep conditioning product. You'll also leave the product on for longer than you would a regular rinse-out conditioner. Again, reference the instructions for how long you should leave it on. If there are no usage instructions on your deep conditioner, maybe you need to select another deep conditioner.
Don't use a conditioner and a deep conditioner on the same day. Use one or the other.
Use Leave-in Conditioners, Oils, and Moisturizers As Needed
If you thought that shampooing, conditioning, and deep conditioning were enough for your natural hair, allow me to enlighten you - that's rarely the case. Though it may seem extra, leave-in conditioners, oils, and moisturizers are necessary for the vast majority of curly hair regimens. Each of these product types has a vital function in helping you promote your hair health. Here's a little bit about each of them and how to reap the benefits of each:
Leave-in conditioner. Leave-in conditioner is a light conditioner formulated to be left on the hair. It not only helps you keep dryness away, but it also helps with frizz and detangling. That is, if you get your hands on a quality leave-in. To get the benefits of your leave-in, you'll spritz it onto your damp or dry hair, smooth it through with your hands or comb it through with a wide tooth comb, and proceed with the rest of your hair routine.
Oils. If you haven't dabbled in hair oils, you're missing out, and so is your hair! There are a wide variety of oils out there that can make your hair more manageable, softer, more hydrated, and healthier overall. A few of the most common oils used for curly hair include olive oil and coconut oil. My personal favorite is olive oil - it makes my curls feel like literal butter. You can apply the oil straight to your hair, add it to your favorite hair products, or oil your scalp with it, and the use cases don't end there.
Moisturizers and hydrating stylers. Your conditioner, deep conditioner, and leave-in conditioner will give your curls some serious hydration. But the reality is that many people's curls need more to maintain proper elasticity and resist breakage from daily styling and environmental influences. Moisturizers are cream or spray products created with the sole purpose of keeping your hair lubricated and hydrated. In addition to moisturizers, you have your stylers (gels, creams, sprays, mousses, etc.), some of which are more hydrating than others. Many stylers tackle several hair issues - they may define, hydrate, defrizz, protect, or handle all of these things and more. Some stylers may double as moisturizers, just as moisturizers may double as stylers. Follow the instructions on the packaging for the best results.
Style Mindfully and Gently
Caring for your natural hair means being selective with how you style it. If you want to maintain the health of your hair and stave off breakage, avoid wearing your hair in tight styles or rocking the same style every single day. Doing so will eventually start to break your hair off.
Instead, style mindfully and gently. Choose styles that allow your natural hair to thrive and do its thing (to an extent). A few great hairstyles to try include wash n' gos, twist outs, braid outs, and other styles that don't pull your hair so tightly.
If you ever find yourself in your stylist's chair wincing, tell them right away that they're pulling your hair too tight. And if you notice after the fact that your hair is too tight, take that style down right away. Those "braid-loosening" tactics rarely work and can do more harm than good.
"No pain, no gain" doesn't apply to natural hair care or styling.
Don't Forget About Protein
I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the fact that moisture isn't all your hair needs to thrive. Protein, the main substance that makes up our hair strands, is equally important. If your strands aren't getting enough protein on a regular basis, your strands can become weaker, and that means they'll be more likely to break off.
To increase your hair's protein levels, you'll do a protein treatment (like Aphoghee) or apply protein-containing products or ingredients to your hair. Protein treatments are much more potent than protein-based products and are necessary when your hair has been severely damaged (by excessive bleaching or coloring, relaxers, perms, etc.). Otherwise, you'll top up every now and again with a protein-based hair product.
Note: Some people have protein-sensitive hair that doesn't react well to added protein. If you have protein-sensitive hair, do yourself a favor and avoid experimenting with protein at home. See a cosmetologist to get a professional opinion.
Sometimes, you won't need to add any protein to your hair; if your hair is in good condition, there's no need to do so.
Stay on Top of Your Trims
If your goal for your hair is to grow your hair out, trimming your hair might seem counterproductive. But it's necessary to maintain the health of your hair. Split ends are usually situated at the ends of the hair, and if they're left alone, they'll travel up the hair shaft and could lead to breakage. To prevent that, trim your hair as needed - whenever you see that your split ends are getting bad. Most people with curls trim their hair every 6 to 12 weeks. But you have to experiment to see which trimming frequency will work best for you.
Throw Out Any Harsh Products in Your Hair Stash
Your hair care products have an enormous effect on how your hair looks, feels, and behaves. If you're using harsh, damaging products on your hair on a regular basis, there's a good chance that you'll pay for it later. Below, we'll present to you several ingredients that pop up in your favorite hair products - you should avoid them like the plague if you want healthy hair.
Drying alcohols. Hair sprays and gels often have drying alcohols in them. They can dry your hair out in a hurry, and if you use them often, your hair could become so dry that it weakens and breaks off. Isopropyl, benzyl, and ethyl alcohol are a few drying alcohols to look out for.
Sulfates. Sulfates have a bad rep for good reason. They are so good at removing excess oils, product residue, and debris that they strip your hair to the max. There are gentler cleansers out there that use decyl glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, and other sulfate alternatives. Turn to those instead.
Salt. We know... table salt may seem harmless in moderation. But it's not something you should be applying to your hair on a continual basis. It's super drying to the hair, and since your curls are already prone to dryness, my advice is to avoid it as much as possible. You'll often find salt in deep cleansing shampoos and some sprays.
Prioritize natural, gentle products if you want your hair to be healthy.
Get to Know Your Hair
One of the most crucial things to do when taking care of your natural hair is to get to know it. And all it takes is watching it closely over time. For instance, if you take a good look at your hair, touch it, and get familiar with it before using a product, you'll be able to tell whether that product helped or hurt your hair. It also helps to document your hair journey, whether it be through videos, journaling, or a combination of both. Over time, you'll gain an in-depth understanding of your hair's likes, dislikes, and needs. And that's where patience comes in; if you can trust the process, you'll become one with your hair and caring for it will be second nature.
My Low-Maintenance Hair Care Routine for Healthy Hair Growth
With all of that information understood, let's get into my low-maintenance hair care routine for healthy hair growth.
A little background on my hair: It's 4a along the hairline, 3B in the back, and 3C everywhere else. It's bra-strap length (stretched) and super fine with minimal split ends and no active breakage. My main hair concern is maintaining my hydration levels and keeping breakage at bay. I want to grow my hair to tailbone length.
Here's what my hair care routine looks like:
Wash Day (every week) - My wash day starts with shampooing my hair with a sulfate-free shampoo and following up with a hydrating conditioner. If my hair is feeling a bit on the dry side, I'll switch out my regular conditioner for a deep conditioner. While the conditioner/deep conditioner sits on my hair, I section my hair off and use a wide-tooth comb to get rid of any tangles or knots. After rinsing out the conditioner/deep conditioner, I squeeze out excess moisture and rake the following through my hair in sections:
Leave-in conditioner cream.
Oil (just a light coat).
Styling cream.
After everything is applied and distributed, I let my hair air dry. If I'm in a hurry, I do blow dry my hair lightly (it's best to do this with a diffuser). I usually wear my hair as is, in a wash n' go.
Hair Refresh (in-between wash days as needed). Whenever my wash n' go starts to look a little wilder than I prefer, I spritz my hair down with water until it's damp, reapply my styler, and then coil sections of hair here and there to give the style some shape. I never refresh my hair more than once a week.
Clarifying session (every month) - To guard against buildup, I do a clarifying session once a month. If I notice any buildup before my monthly session, I'll clarify it then. It all depends on what my hair is telling me. The process is nearly the same as my regular shampooing session, except I leave the clarifying shampoo in my hair for a couple of minutes before rinsing. After clarifying, I go forward with the rest of my usual wash day routine.
Trim (three times a year) - I trim my hair on my own three times a year using the dusting method. This method requires you to twist or braid your hair in sections and then cut off as much as you want from the ends. I make my twists really small to keep my hair length relatively uniform. It works for me.
This is the short version of my hair care routine, and it has been helping my hair thrive. But remember that just because a certain hair routine works for one person doesn't mean that it will automatically work for you. But it doesn't hurt to give it a try and tweak it as needed based on your preferences and hair type.
So, there you have it - how to care for curly natural hair and some insight into my own hair routine. I hope that you found valuable information you can use to give your hair the best possible care.
Happy journey!
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